Carinthia, Austria: I found the prettiest Christmas market, snowy trails, vast lakes and a spa with one big surprise

Klagenfurt Airport was a breeze. It’s so tiny! There was something charming about how quiet it was - a world away from the usual airport chaos. I soaked in the beautiful surrounding mountains as I walked from the plane to passport control.

The town of Klagenfurt itself was a dream to wander. I arrived just in time to catch the Benedictine Market, held every Thursday and Saturday. It was a mix of everything from cured meats and woodwork to beautiful Christmas centrepieces. I couldn’t resist buying one for my flat back home.

In the central square they also had traditional Christmas Markets with traditional wooden huts and plenty of opportunities for good food and warm drinks. The Christmas lights across the city were beautiful. Great sheets of white lights hung above streets or covering whole rows of trees. It felt magical.

I love Christmas markets. Each year I go slightly Christmas market crazy. This winter I have already visited four different markets in Europe. I was excited to add five more to the list as I travelled across Carinthia. With this experience, I can say without a doubt that the prettiest Christmas market that I have ever visited is in Klagenfurt.

Let me set the scene. White tents lined up either side of the canal. White lights draped over the water with small fire pits and real pine trees decorating the space. There are church bells ringing each hour from above and brass players playing Christmas songs on a small stage. And most importantly - mulled wine for less than a fiver!

I actually traded my mulled wine for Apfelmost - a mulled cider that is more popular in Austria. It was lovely to see such unique crafts at each stall. It was common to see the stall owner working on their craft right in front of you. But I was slightly concerned at the lack of safety protection worn by the blacksmiths. They forged metal charms and fire pokers whilst a man on another stall was making beautiful wooden gifts.

The other markets that we visited were more traditional with lines of wooden huts. In the Christmas markets at Klagenfurt main square we hunted down the city’s famous dragon statue. The city is not short of legends and fables that made exploring all the more exciting.

I stayed at two hotels in Klagenfurt. Select and an Ibis Styles. Both were central, comfortable and had all of the modern comforts we have come to expect. I had a beautiful view over the city from my room in the Ibis. However, the Select hotel had amazing views from its rooftop bar.

I also enjoyed one of the best steaks I have ever had at PrincS which is definitely worth a visit. If not for the food, for its lively atmosphere.

Venturing out of Klagenfurt I visited Badehaus Millstatt. A beautiful spa set on one of Carinthia’s many lakes. It was in the most beautiful setting with unobstructed views of the surrounding mountains. However, there is one important thing I wish I’d known before arriving… swimsuits are optional.

The first clue should have been the mixed gendered changing rooms but I was still caught of guard. They take it seriously too - my friend was told off for having their swimsuit on in the sauna and had to leave. Despite the awkward start it was a beautiful spa with excellent facilities. My favourite was the salt scrub steam room. I even braved a dip in the icy lake outside.

Heading up into the mountains I also spent a night in Katschberg. A week too early for the ski season but it was exciting to see the snow. We took a horse drawn carriage ride to explore the Katschberg Advent Path. This was one of the most unique Christmas activities I have ever enjoyed. A winter hike at 1,750 meters with cabins hosting festive activities along the way. You are given a flask and can collect your tea top ups throughout the walk. There were choir singers and musicians, storytellers, crafty activities and even angels who could help you stuff your own teddy bear.

Lake Worthersee was another highlight. We took a boat trip from Velden to Maria Worth which gave beautiful views over the lake. Plus, each stop offered new Christmas markets to explore!

Another highlight was climbing the Pyramidenkogel Tower. It boasted panoramic views of Carinthia and beyond! The 441 steps seemed intimidating at first but it was worth it for the views. And it was fun to take the slide back to the bottom.

My favourite meal of the trip was at Das Kulinarium, a restaurant tucked away slightly out of town. Surprisingly, my favourite part was the bread course. It was presented like a small garden - complete with mini scissors to cut your own fresh cress. Every dish that followed was a delight, from the sheep’s cheese starter to veal that melted in the mouth.

Carinthia surprised me at every turn. Not only did I find the prettiest Christmas market. It had vast lakes, snowy trails and unbeatable scenery. I’ll be back, determined to enjoy the lakes at 25 degrees rather than 3 degrees!