We travelled to Guernsey on our way home from France, here’s why it made the perfect pitstop

Take in some of the many WW2 sites

The Channel Islands were the only parts of Britain to be occupied by the Nazis during World War Two and reminders of this period are scattered across the landscape; this was once the most fortified place in the world. The German Occupation Museum provides a detailed look at daily life under occupation through artefacts, photographs, and personal stories. But we found the German Underground Hospital the most interesting WW2 site of all the ones we visited. We’re not talking a handful of rooms underground, but a massive 6,950 square metre warren of tunnels that feel like the perfect set for a horror movie.

The Little Chapel

We only visited the Little Chapel because it was a three-minute drive from the German Underground Museum, but it I was so happy that we did. It’s easy to see where the Little Chapel gets its name from, it looked so tiny as we approached that I wasn’t sure I would fit inside, but as well as being unbelievably ornate, it’s also something of a Tardis, with the vast proportion of the chapel being built into the hillside and invisible from the outside. It only takes a few moments to walk from the main entrance to the hidden exit at the foot of the hill. Still, the interior, decorated with pebbles, seashells and broken pottery, is so unique that you’ll surely find yourself taking another trip through. It’s free, though donations are welcome, and well worth the three-minute detour.

Feel like you’re in Bermuda at Chuet Bay

Guernsey’s varied coastline stretches for 27 miles and boasts sandy beaches, towering cliffs, and secluded coves. The island’s southern coast is particularly dramatic, with trails meandering alongside sheer cliffs. Wildflowers bloom in abundance here during spring and summer and you can enjoy views of the neighbouring islands of Herm, Sark, and even France on a clear day.

Our favourite spot was Chuet Bay, where the kids spent several hours digging in the sand and wading in the shallows. The sun was shining when we visited in mid-April, the sand was almost white, and the water a beautiful cobalt hue. We could easily have been in Bermuda – until we stepped into the sea of course. But that didn’t stop a group of elderly ladies, who we watched swim in the bay for close to an hour with no wetsuits. Cold water swimming is said to have many mental and physical health benefits, but the furthest I managed was my waist.

As you’d expect on an island, various water sports are found all over Guernsey. Kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding, and coasteering are particularly popular, with rental companies offering equipment and wetsuits for lesser mortals like me.

The charms of St. Peter Port

Known locally as “The Town”, the capital of Guernsey, St. Peter Port, blends history, culture, and seaside beauty perfectly. Set on a steep hillside overlooking the busy harbour, “The Town” is a picturesque blend of cobbled streets, colourful buildings, and sea views, with some excellent seafood restaurants along the way.

The heart of St Peter Port is the bustling harbour, where yachts and fishing boats bob in the sheltered waters and ferries ply their way to Britain, France and the nearby islands of Herm and Sark. At the mouth of the harbour looms Castle Cornet, an imposing 13th-century fortress that has guarded the harbour for centuries. We spent a couple of hours happily exploring the nooks and crannies of the castle, imagining what the soldiers’ lives must have been like, expecting an invasion from nearby France at any given moment. Unfortunately, we visited in the evening and missed the ceremonial noonday gun firing, with accompanying music and marching, because we were too busy digging at Chuet Bay.

Fans of Victor Hugo might prefer Hauteville House, the French author’s home while in exile from 1856-1870 and where he wrote Les Misrables. The house is now a museum and open to the public.

Marvel at the many free prehistoric sites

Guernsey is home to some truly remarkable sites from the prehistoric world. These well-preserved sites are invariably free to visit at any time of year or day. We found one ancient burial chamber – La Varde – in the middle of the local golf course. There was also a German WW2 bunker a few steps away and a sandy beach a few moments away. Our absolute favourite was Déhus Dolmen, a 3500–2000 BC passage grave, featuring a unique carved “Guardian of the Tomb” figure on the ceiling. It’s a sobering experience staring at a face carved thousands of years ago, and scarcely believable that the site is completely unmanned and freely open to the public.

Get a “free” pitstop on your way to or from France

While we could easily have spent a week exploring the forts and beaches of Guernsey and the islands of Herm and Sark, our kids love France and wanted to return to a Eurocamp park in Brittany. So, for us, Guernsey made the perfect pitstop on our way back home, thanks to its position in the Channel. Condor Ferries – the only ferry company that travels from the UK to Guernsey – use the island as a stopover to St Malo. This wonderful walled port city has great beaches, rockpools that are large enough to swim in and man-made sea baths with diving platforms. St Malo is also very close to Mont St Michel, the second most visited attraction in France. When we visited, it even worked out cheaper to sail from St Malo with a stopover in Guernsey than sailing directly to the UK from St Malo. Granted, there are accommodation costs on top of this, but it’s also possible to time sailings so that you spend a day in Guernsey and effectively get a free stopover on the island if you travel with Condor Ferries. The ferries can now also be booked on the Brittany Ferries website and combined with a direct sailing to/from France in the opposite direction.