The Lodge at Ashford Castle review: Why this County Mayo stay is unlike any other
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A sunrise stroll through ancient woodland alongside Irish wolfhounds, exceptional food grown just metres from the kitchen and genuine Irish hospitality at every turn made this one of the most memorable hotel stays I've experienced.
Luxury hotels often promise unforgettable experiences, but few deliver one before you've had breakfast.
The setting: the breathtaking grounds of Ashford Castle in County Mayo.
The mission: to explore the vast estate of this beautiful part of the Republic of Ireland from the cool quiet of the Kinloch Woods.
The guides: three magnificent Irish wolfhounds, a Labrador and a romping Irish red and white setter, along with their fun and fascinating handler, Tommy.
I'm a dog lover, but you don't have to be to appreciate this unique early morning walk. Wandering through the peaceful woodland with these gentle giants was a magical way to start the day and just one of the many experiences available to guests staying on the historic estate, which was owned by the Guinness family for more than 100 years.
We stayed at The Lodge at Ashford Castle, where we spent two nights in the spectacular Guinness Suite, complete with panoramic views across Lough Corrib. Originally built in 1865 as the estate manager's residence, The Lodge joined the Red Carnation Hotels collection in 2014, a year after the family-owned company acquired Ashford Castle.
Today, it offers 64 elegant rooms and suites, including our Guinness Suite. Dressed in black, white, gold and silver, it's a showstopping tribute to Ireland's most famous stout, featuring bold striped sofas, a four-poster bed and mirrored walls. A freestanding bath sits in one corner of the room, while doors open onto a private terrace overlooking the lake. The powerful walk-in shower came complete with beautifully scented toiletries from County Meath's Handmade Soap Company, another thoughtful nod to Irish craftsmanship.
Returning after dinner felt like walking into a different room. The blinds and curtains had been drawn, mood lighting cast a warm glow, fresh towels and robes were waiting and chocolates had been thoughtfully placed on the bed. I love a good turndown service, and The Lodge delivered it perfectly, a reflection of the high standards set by general manager Peter Fergus and his team.
It's impossible not to be wooed by everything the Ashford Estate has to offer, and our morning dog walk was just the beginning of two days spent exploring its many treasures. If you visit, don't miss the one-hour boat trip on the lake. As we cruised across the water, our lively skipper Patrick shared stories of the Guinness family's time here, their legendary shooting parties and their enduring legacy, before explaining how later owners continued to restore and preserve this extraordinary corner of Ireland. He delivered every tale with warmth, wit and colourful language - perfectly befitting a man who's been at the helm for 49 years.
One of my favourite discoveries was the estate's kitchen garden. Niamh proudly showed us neat rows of fruit, vegetables, herbs and microgreens destined for the kitchens at both Ashford Castle and The Lodge. Under the guidance of head gardener Alex, the team is expanding what can be grown on the estate, boosting biodiversity while reducing food miles.
It's no surprise the chefs make such a fuss of the produce. There are two places to eat at The Lodge. We found ourselves drawn back to Quay Bar & Brasserie more than once during our stay, enjoying a light lunch and dinner in the relaxed, unpretentious restaurant with its quirky wall art and views across the water. The food is anything but ordinary. My pan of fresh, flavoursome mussels was gloriously generous and packed with sweet, juicy shellfish, while bar manager David's friendly, attentive service made us feel like regulars rather than guests staying for just two nights.
Dinner at Wilde's, The Lodge's fine-dining restaurant, proved exactly why the estate invests so much time and care into its kitchen garden. The menu even credits the gardening team with supplying much of the fruit and vegetables used in the kitchen, alongside ingredients foraged from the surrounding woodland and shoreline and honey from the estate's own hives. We couldn't wait to taste produce we'd seen growing in the gardens just a few hours earlier.
Executive Chef Jonathan Keane lets exceptional Irish ingredients take centre stage, combining fine produce with elegant, confident cooking. I started with delicately sweet, pan-seared scallops before moving on to herb-crusted rack of lamb, served pink and packed with flavour. My partner opted for the wonderfully crisp salted hake Scotch egg, followed by slow-cooked short rib of beef that was meltingly tender beneath a rich sticky treacle glaze.
To finish, I couldn't resist the Ashford Garden summer berry pavlova, topped with strawberries and tayberries grown on the estate, especially after it was recommended by our server Clement, while across the table was Bea's Cheesecake, a baked vanilla cheesecake that's proudly marked on the menu as one of founder Mrs T's favourite signature dishes, another top tip from Clement. From first course to last, every plate reflected the same attention to detail we'd experienced throughout our stay and, from our window seat, we watched guests lingering on the terrace long after their meals had finished, reluctant to leave one of the finest dining views in County Mayo.
All that wonderful food needs walking off, and a gentle woodland trail leads from The Lodge to Ashford Castle. We were lucky enough to persuade the delightful Ebenezer to give us an impromptu tour of this 800-year-old castle, where stories of royalty, Hollywood stars and political leaders spill from every room.
Over the years, guests have included King George V, John Lennon, George Harrison, Brad Pitt, Pierce Brosnan and Ronald Reagan, while more recently the castle played host to Rory McIlroy's wedding - a fitting reminder that golf has long been part of life on the Ashford Estate.
Being golfers, we were always going to squeeze in a round. The course is beautifully maintained, with emerald-green fairways that thrive in the west of Ireland's famously wet climate. The standout moments come on the fifth and ninth tees, where sweeping views across Lough Corrib are almost enough to distract you from your next shot.
The leisure centre is well-worth a visit and you can also play tennis, go fishing and enjoy a falconry experience.
Before leaving, heritage guide Vincent Campbell led us on a walk along the river to the neighbouring village of Cong, where The Quiet Man lives on through its filming locations and tributes to stars John Wayne and Maureen O'Hara. Along the way, Vincent shared memories of growing up on the Ashford Estate and stories of the estate's former owners. It was a fitting end to a stay steeped in history.
Days after returning home, we were still talking about the wolfhounds, the people we met, the genuine Irish warmth that greeted us at every turn and the remarkable experiences that filled every hour of our stay. For me, that's the mark of a truly exceptional hotel.
- Nightly rates at The Lodge at Ashford Castle start from around £195 for a Deluxe King Room per night on a B&B basis including taxes.
- We flew from East Midlands to Knock Airport with Ryanair, and hired a car from Budget. It’s a one-hour trip from the airport to The Lodge.