Mojacar: The quaint Spanish hilltop town that might just be the birthplace of Walt Disney

On the side of a supporting wall that faces the market square sheltering at the foot of the hillside town of Mojacar Pueblo, there’s an intriguing mural showing the face of a Hollywood legend and the words: “Posiblemente… Walt Disney nacio en Mojacar”.

So the legend has it, in 1901 the legendary animator was born in Mojacar, out of wedlock to a lowly local woman and a well-to-do doctor before being spirited away to California where he was adopted… posiblemente.

Despite the best efforts of the Disney corporation in the 1940s (and the tourism-conscious local council ever since) no documentary evidence of this event has been found.

But that hasn’t stopped the enterprising people of this charming Almeria ‘white town’ from claiming Walt as their own. As Walt himself might have said, why let the facts get in the way of a great story.

In truth, there’s no need for the marketing people to oversell Mojacar. Walt or no Walt, Mojacar is no Mickey Mouse town, or even the Cinderella of the Costas. It is Beauty and the Beast. Any Dumbo can see that!

Just take the old town, perched 175m above the spectacular plains of Almeria, the driest of the Spanish provinces and the location for countless ‘spaghetti’ westerns. If you’re looking for authentic Spain, you’ll find it in Mojacar’s cobbled, winding side streets which snake steeply up from the market square to the top of the town (or, like me, take the free lift).

Yes, there are souvenir shops aplenty but you’ll also find unassuming bars and restaurants to suit all tastes (and pockets), along with boutique hotels and hostels, and rough and ready rental apartments, all painted white. Only the 16th century Santa Maria Parish Church is allowed a natural stone façade.

You can easily spend a day or two exploring all the alleys here, pausing every hour or so to rest your legs and unwind with a café con leché or a cold cerveza. Don’t leave without picking up an ornamental indalo, the ubiquitous symbol of the region depicting a man holding a rainbow above his head. Found on inscriptions dating back to 2500BC, it is reproduced now on countless fridge magnets and stickers.

If the pueblo is the beauty, the main coastal town of Mojacar Playa might qualify as the beast. Around 1.5km from the old town, it’s an easy downhill walk or a short, cheap bus ride away but it may as well be on another planet.

As its name implies, this is very much a beach resort and boasts a magnificent sandy shoreline that stretches 17km, taking in Mojacar Playa’s ribbon development all the way north to the hotel-dominated port town of Garrucha.

In the summer, the holiday accommodation along the strip disgorges thousands of sun-seekers who happily avail themselves of the golf courses, chiringuitos, nightclubs and restaurants.

Looking for a full English breakfast washed down with a pint of John Smith’s? You’ll be spoilt for choice. But there’s an air of subtle refinement here that sets this resort well apart from its northern cousin Benidorm and the likes of Torremolinos to the south. Hotels like the state-funded Parador are typically more expensive here and some of the restaurants – even those perched on the edge of the sea – wouldn’t look out of place in the smarter suburbs of Madrid and Barcelona. As a consequence, Mojacar Playa tends to attract the more, er, ‘discerning’ tourist.

There are many, though, who will spend their entire break relaxing on the beach, rising from their recliners only to take the occasional dip in the impossibly clear blue waters of this stretch of the Mediterranean.

There’s a great temptation to give them a nudge and tell them that just a mile or so inland, at the top of a hill, there’s a wonderful old town with a unique charm, centuries of fascinating history and a tantalising claim to be the birthplace of a true Hollywood legend.

And then you stop and tell yourself that some gems are meant to be hidden. Aren’t they?

Factfile:

Where to stay: For Mojacar Pueblo, head for Hotel El Olivar, a beautiful boutique hotel overlooking the church with home-made breakfasts and stunning views over the plains and mountains. https://elolivarmojacar.es/en/el-olivar/

If you prefer the beach resort, look no further than the Parador. Book through www.paradors.es

Where to eat: For authentic Moorish food, try the Moroccan Calima restaurant in the old town https://calimamojacar.com/en/

On the strip, the best chiringuito, or beach bar, is the Kon Tiki https://kontikibeachrestaurant.com/ Make sure you watch the sun go down with a G&T made with Nordes gin.

When to go: You’ll avoid the crowds and find some great deals – and great 20C weather – in December. In 2022, Mojacar Pueblo won a national award, earning it a spectacular collection of Christmas lights. In late November/early December, they’re switched on after an unmissable theatrical display of dance and music.

How to get there: We travelled independently with Brittany Ferries, which sails from Portsmouth and Rosslare to Bilbao and from Portsmouth and Plymouth to Santander. Brittany Ferries sails from Portsmouth and Rosslare to Bilbao and from Portsmouth and Plymouth to Santander. We sailed on the Santander to Portsmouth route where fares start from £368 each way for a car and 2 passengers (or £458 for a car and a family of 4) including an en-suite cabin. (brittany-ferries.co.uk) 

The nearest airport is Almeria but you’ll find the best deals from the UK are to Alicante (about 2 ½ hours away) and Murcia (just over an hour’s drive).