Tenerife: 'I went to The Ritz-Carlton, Abama and this is why it needs to be on every foodie’s bucket list'

Food expert Emily Horan gives her verdict on a foodies' dream in TenerifeFood expert Emily Horan gives her verdict on a foodies' dream in Tenerife
Food expert Emily Horan gives her verdict on a foodies' dream in Tenerife | NW
A terracotta-hued oasis nestled on Tenerife’s southwest coast, The Ritz-Carlton, Abama has plenty to offer its guests. But, as a hardcore foodie, I was pleased to find that the resort’s unparalleled gastronomic offerings were the jewel in its crown.

With its very own two-Michelin-starred restaurant, round-the-clock poolside snacks, and an array of unique restaurants and bars, this is a place that will imbue you with gourmet memories to last long after the holiday tan has faded.

Needless to say, I was in my element when I visited the five-star resort in mid-October to experience their luxurious newly-opened Retreat area. Not only was I treated to an exceptional VIP service, plush surroundings and balmy sub-tropical sun (a welcome respite from England’s dreary autumnal climes), I was blown away with some of the best meals of my life.

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A view of The Ritz-Carlton, AbamaA view of The Ritz-Carlton, Abama
A view of The Ritz-Carlton, Abama | Marriott International

My personal highlights were a 12-hour slow-cooked wagyu beef from chef Akira Back’s Japanese restaurant, a purple sweet potato dish unlike anything I’ve ever tasted from vegetable-forward spot Verde Mar, and, well, just about every single morsel of the 12-course tasting menu at two-Michelin-starred restaurant M.B by Spain’s culinary god, Martín Berasategui.

So, where to begin? My first taste of the Ritz-Carlton’s trove of foodie delights was a light but delicious tasting menu at Seoul-born chef Akira Back’s elegant eponymous restaurant, which celebrates Japanese cuisine. Set on the resort’s periphery, it is accessible by a short shuttle bus ride. The star of the show was the aforementioned wagyu cheek - and I’m not exaggerating when I say it was the most tender, melt-in-the-mouth piece of meat I’ve ever tasted; I would’ve had no trouble eating it with a spoon. The meat was complimented by courses of fresh fish and exquisite sushi, all topped off with a zingy yuzu mochi for dessert. The perfect taster of the culinary treats in store.

Verde Mar offers a whole new take on putting veg firstVerde Mar offers a whole new take on putting veg first
Verde Mar offers a whole new take on putting veg first | NW

Our lunch at Verde Mar the next day was a contrast to Akira Back’s seafood-led meal. Here, meat and fish take a back seat to allow locally-grown vegetables shine. And shine they most certainly do. Starters of mouthwatering kimchi croquettes and locally-grown banana topped with salsa and black garlic emulsion were followed by plant-powered delights.

The purple sweet potato hailing from Tenerife’s neighbour Lanzarote, laced with mojo verde (a green salsa native to the Canary Islands), sour cream, mango and crunchy corn was bursting with flavour and texture and was as vibrantly pretty as it was tasty.

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Verde Mar, which is named after the Spanish phrase meaning ‘sea-green’, prides itself on its zero- kilometre mantra, meaning everything is sourced very locally, and the team strives to reduce food waste as much as possible. Take the delicate orange sorbet dessert as an example; it was made using 70% of the fruit, including pith, giving it a well-rounded depth of flavour and ending the meal on a high (and sustainable) note.

You'll find the foodie dream at two-Michelin-starred restaurant M.BYou'll find the foodie dream at two-Michelin-starred restaurant M.B
You'll find the foodie dream at two-Michelin-starred restaurant M.B | Other

Unsurprisingly, the culinary highlight of my stay was the 12-course tasting menu at two-Michelin-starred restaurant M.B by Martín Berasategui. The Spanish chef holds an eye-popping total of 12 Michelin stars (the most of any Spanish chef), yet is relatively unknown in the English-speaking world. Having been treated to a behind-the-scenes tour of the kitchen by Martín himself and his right hand man - chef Erlantz Gorostiza, who steers the ship at this restaurant - I was rather excited to sit down to the meal… and it did not disappoint.

We had ‘The Great Classics’ menu, which opened with Martin’s long-standing ‘OG’ dish (devised in 1993): a savoury millefeuille with smoked eel, foie-gras and caramelised apple. My favourite moments of the meal were the soldier shrimp served with a vibrant green jalepeno-tinged gazpacho, almond kernel panna cotta and shiso sorbet, closely followed by the citrusy red tuna tartare dish. The meal culminated in two fruity desserts - a hyper-realistic zesty lemon dish and a sumptuous apple pie, which was upstaged by its unassuming companion: a perfectly-balanced green apple sorbet.

If Michelin-starred dining isn’t your thing, the Ritz-Carlton has plenty of other restaurants to enjoy, from poolside eatery Txoko, serving modern Basque-influenced flavours, to the Italian-themed Verona restaurant and the relaxed Deli Cafe, located just off the main lobby.

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The Ritz-Carlton, Abama - one of The Retreat's deluxe roomsThe Ritz-Carlton, Abama - one of The Retreat's deluxe rooms
The Ritz-Carlton, Abama - one of The Retreat's deluxe rooms | Marriott International

But it’s not just the food that sets the Ritz-Carlton apart. It recently opened its pièce de résistance: The Retreat. It’s a sophisticated little sister to the main hotel - although still very much part of the resort - that is set further down towards the sea, boasting the best ocean views in the house.

Comprised of four secluded avenues of two-storey ‘casitas’ (Spanish for little ‘mansions’), the area offers an elevated experience. Two of the avenues are adults-only, while the other two are family friendly, and river-like pools snake their way between each tier, making sure every guest has fast access to a pocket of tranquil space to relax.

The suites themselves are magnificent. The fresh, airy interiors boast just the right amount of opulence, with their toasted, earthy colour palettes paying homage to Tenerife’s volcanic landscape. Think marble bathrooms with very well-lit mirrors, deep bathtubs and an expansive king sized bed. The spacious rooms - nine of which have their own private pools - are scattered with beautiful wall art and pottery made by local artisans.

What you need to know ...

The new rooms and suites are now available to book. Book via https://www.ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/tfsrz-the-ritz-carlton-abama 

Prices start at €900 + taxes per night (approx. £750), including breakfast.

Set on quite a steep incline, The Retreat offers taxis and golf buggies to help you get around. It’s all walkable, but if you’re unable to walk it, or want to give your legs a rest, you may need to factor in a little more time to get to those all-important dinner reservations. Retreat guests enjoy several exclusive benefits, such as The Club - a serene outdoor space where you can indulge in a refined round-the-clock buffet of canapés, small bowls and afternoon tea, as well as a ‘cocktail of the day’, between dips in the inviting infinity pool.

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El Mirador offers incredible sea views and seafoodEl Mirador offers incredible sea views and seafood
El Mirador offers incredible sea views and seafood | Marriott International

However, the Retreat’s pride and joy is its El Mirador restaurant, situated near the cliff’s edge. Here, you’ll find the best sea views in the resort; 180-degree panoramas of the Atlantic punctuated by swaying palm trees, banana plants and the majestic silhouette of neighbouring island, La Gomera. It’s the perfect place for a sundowner. The restaurant itself has a more intimate vibe than the main hotel restaurant, which makes it a great place to enjoy breakfast. Although, if you’re after an even wider selection for your morning meal, I’d suggest trying out the main hotel’s La Veranda restaurant too. I enjoyed sampling the extensive selection of freshly made juices, smoothies and milkshakes, as well as the never-ending pastry table and a very Instagram-worthy donut wall!

Here I am, talking about food again. It’s hard not to when the offering is this good. A beautiful winter sun escape, The Ritz-Carlton, Abama most certainly is. But its spectacular food offering truly makes it a cut above the rest.

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