Santander: Not just a port to pass through on the way into Spain


If, like me, your annual holiday is a self-drive adventure focused on one of Spain’s glorious southern resorts, Santander can pass by in a bit of a blur.
Yes, it looks nice enough when you’re stood on the deck of a Brittany ferry gracefully gliding into port. The locals – they must be locals, surely – look like they’re having a great time on those beautiful beaches, and the islands that shimmer in the sound just off the coast look very inviting.
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The city itself, glimpsed as you negotiate the smooth roads guiding you out of docks complex and away from the centre, has all the glamour of a European cultural and business hub, its multi-coloured apartment blocks punctuated by the ornate spires of churches while grand mansions and hotels fringe the clifftops that overlook this Cantabrian capital.
But, you think, they’ll all look a lot nicer when you’ve disembarked and they’re disappearing in your rear-view mirror as you begin the Costa Del Sol Grand Prix.
Woah! Easy Fernando! You’re in danger of missing out on one of northern Spain’s prettiest, most historic, and liveliest cities.


Long before the 1950s boom in overseas tourism, Santander was the holiday destination of choice for Spain’s royalty who established a summer palace here at the turn of the last century. Their well-heeled friends, of course, soon followed suit and by 1920 there was a string of striking hotels each offering luxury surroundings in which to sit out the stifling heat of Madrid.
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Hide AdWhile the civil war might have taken the shine off Spain, and a devastating fire in 1941 ripped the heart out of the city, the end of Franco and the return of the monarchy has seen Santander bounce back to become a must-see destination and resort once more.


A resort needs beaches, of course, and the Santander coastal path affords access to some of the best and most dramatic beaches in Spain. Take the Matalenas Path and explore Molinucos Beach with its golden sands, or Matalenas Beach, an idyllic little cove, or the surfing centres of Bocal and Rosamunda Beaches, pausing for a seafood lunch at the restaurants of Maruca Beach by the Ria de San Pedro del Mar estuary.
If all this sounds a little, er, decadent, there is plenty to occupy the cultural soul. Tour Santander (www.toursantander.es) offers a selection of guided walks which peel away the many layers of the city. 1941: Santander on Fire explores how the city has changed since the original city centre all but disappeared. Secret Santander, meanwhile, gives you the chance to “go where very few dare”, investigating the city’s murderous past!


More adventurous walkers, of course, have some of Europe’s most dramatic landscapes to explore on Santander’s doorstep. The Picos de Europa mountain range – lush and green in summer, snow-bedecked for skiers and snowboarders in winter – offers a host of challenging – and more comfortable – routes, depending on your ruggedness. However, the cable cars of Fuenté Dé save on shoe leather and lung capacity and are a fantastic way to climb to 1,823 metres and enjoy views over the Liebana Valley.
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There’s a remarkable cable car, too, at Cabarceno wildlife park (www.parquedecabarceno.com) , around 15 miles south of Santander. While keeping animals in captivity can be divisive, the set-up of this ‘zoo’ means there is as much freedom for the inhabitants as is possible outside of the wild. Here, extensive old mine workings have been converted into vast open plains where giraffes, elephants and other big, non-predatory beasts roam together. A cable car soars high above them, giving you a bird’s eye view of their peaceful, untroubled existence.
But these experiences are for the die-hard, off-beat traveller, happy to devote a week or more to one of Spain’s Cinderella regions. If you have just two or three days to give to Santander, you won’t want to stray too far from the city itself.
We’ve already looked at the beaches. But, along with other major population centres in Spain, Santander has a plethora of festivals and celebrations throughout the year, including an international-renowned jazz festival in early August, a quirky Banos de Ola festival in the first half of July that celebrates the city’s golden era of the early 19th century, and the sprawling Festival Internacional de Santander in August that attracts classical musicians and orchestras from across the world.
With all this activity, you’ll need to refuel at regular intervals. There are more quirky bars, bodegas, cafes and chiringuitos (beach bars) than you can hope to visit, unless you have a grudge against your liver. Better, then, to pick out some of the best.
Ho’Oponopono
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Hide AdA short stroll north from the ferry port brings you to the suburb of Puertochico where you’ll find this bright and buzzing restaurant and takeaway specialising in poke – a Hawaiian dish comprising small pieces of raw fish, marinated and then served with rice and vegetables (www.hosantander.com)
Olivia
Also in Puertochico is this restaurant at the other end of the food chain – a temple for anyone seeking innovative and exotic flavours. Try their spectacular cocktails and signature desserts for the full experience.
La Casa Del Indiano
You’ll find this traditional Cantabrian restaurant in the midst of the Mercado del Este. It offers local and seasonal ingredients to bring life to spectacular meat and fish recipes, as well as rabas (dried squid), anchovies and pudin de cabracho (rockfish pudding). More than an eaterie, it’s a focal point for locals and tourists alike who are drawn to the vibrant market (www.casadelindiano.com)
Factfile:
Where to stay: Two nights at the Gran Hotel Sardinero, midweek in mid-March will cost around £138 for two people. This imposing, palatial hotel is in the heart of the city and very close to the beach. (www.hotelsardinero.es/en/location-hotel-playa-sardinero/)
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Hide AdHow to get there: We travelled independently with Brittany Ferries, which sails from Portsmouth and Plymouth to Santander. We sailed on the Santander to Portsmouth route where fares start from £368 each way for a car and 2 passengers (or £458 for a car and a family of 4) including an en-suite cabin. (brittany-ferries.co.uk) For a budget, whistle-stop experience, try a two-night Brittany Ferries mini-cruise to Santander from £129 per person aboard the Santona. This gives you an enjoyable voyage across the Bay of Biscay with its opportunities for whale and dolphin watching, along with a few hours in which to explore Santander.
Santander has its own airport with flights from the major London airports, along with Manchester, Birmingham, Edinburgh and Newcastle.
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